Organic Garden Tips

For those interested in "ORGANIC" gardening practices, or those just wishing to minimize their use of potentially toxic chemical insecticides, fungicides, herbicides, and fertilizers, here are some homespun, tried and true alternatives.

 Disclaimer: Most of the video links posted below have brief "ads" at the beginning. Please exercise a few seconds of patience and you will be rewarded with a helpful, educational "how to" video that will enhance your veggie gardening experience using these simple "tricks".

• BAKING SODA
• WHOLE MILK                

POWDERY MILDEW - Prevention & Treatment  (for squash, cucumbers, other veggies.) These techniques are also somewhat effective in helping prevent & treat LEAF SPOT and other fungal diseases, so common on tomato plants. (VIDEO 2:12)

• Bt   (Bt is one of the safest natural pesticides you can use to control caterpillar pests without harming beneficial insects, pets, or people.)                 

Bt is readily available in most garden centers, big box stores. Two common brands are:  Dipel and Thuricide.

Bacillus thuringiensis, often abbreviated as Bt, is a naturally-occurring bacteria that makes pests sick when they eat it. Most caterpillars seen eating leaves can be controlled by Bt when applied at the proper time. In vegetable gardens, armyworms, cabbage worms, diamondback moths, melon worms, corn earworms, green cloverworms, pickleworms, tomato fruitworms, tomato hornworms, grape leafrollers, grapeleaf skeltonizers, salt marsh caterpillars, and various webworms and budworms are candidates for treatment with Bt. Sunlight degrades Bt after a few hours, so it is best applied late in the day so it can be consumed during the nightly feeding. Keep in mind that your objective is to place the substance where the caterpillars will eat it. In the case of corn earworms, this means squirting the Bt solution into the tips of young ears of corn. When using Bt to control leaf-eating pests, repeat treatment every seven to 10 days, or until it is no longer needed.

• NEEM OIL (Broad Spectrum Insecticide/Miticide/Fungicide)

 This botanical insecticide is extracted from the seed of the tropical neem tree. A unique broad spectrum pesticide which acts as an insecticide, fungicide, and miticide. As fungicides, they are most effective when used as a preventative or when disease pressure is light.  Does not harm humans, birds, plants, or earthworms... HOWEVER, Neem extract can harm beneficial insects, including honeybees. Do not use Neem when honeybees are actively visiting plants (flowering times). Neem has been used for centuries against aphids, whiteflies, thrips, hornworms, leafminers, gypsy moths, weevils, webworms, loopers, sawflies and more. Neem is most effective against insects which pass through all stages of metamorphosis. 

• INSECTICIDAL SOAP   
  

The secret (if there is one) is in the “soap” used to make the pesticide soap. The soap needs to be a true soap and not a detergent. (The insecticidal power – the kill – comes from the fatty acids contained in the soap. The fatty acids are effective against soft bodied insects like: aphids, mealybugs, mites, thrips, white flies, and the DREADED SQUASH BUG (those stinkers!!). The fatty acids dissolve or remove the insects cell membranes and their natural protective waxy coatings, causing death from excess water loss.)
Potassium based soaps are the most effective in making a spray to control plant pest. Two of the most well known soap products available are  probably Safer’s Insecticidal Soap and an all natural pure soap, like Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap which can be found in many grocery stores. Aim for a 2% soap solution. To make your own....For a 1 Quart Solution; Mix in 1 quart of water 1 tablespoon of soap Shake well!  You can also find "ready mixed, ready to spray" insecticidal soaps at garden centers. Spray insecticidal soap solution directly on bugs...it must go onto the bug itself!!

• EGGSHELLS & BANANA PEELS     

Finally, the ultimate solution to the problem of what to do with those pesky eggshells as oft debated by our "Compost King" (Mr. Craig) and "Master Gardener" (Miss Helen).






BLOSSOM END ROT - Preventive; LONG TERM for Tomatoes, peppers.  (VIDEO 3:25)

NOTE: Adding 1-2 tablespoons of the dry, pulverized eggshells and banana peels depicted in the video above will provide for the release of calcium over a rather long period of time...e.g. the entire growing season and even into next year. The potassium from the banana will be available very quickly.                                                  

•  An ASPIRIN a day!

 HOW TO USE ASPIRIN to Strengthen Tomatoes
      A simple DIY organic method to help your tomatoes fend off diseases. (VIDEO 1:25)

• DISCIPLINE, APPLE JUICE, AND SCISSORS

 SPANKING, PRUNING, AND JUICING - (for Tomatoes) (VIDEO 12:04)                   

 This interesting video provides a guide to helping your tomatoes (and some other flowering veggies) to POLLINATE by use of careful "spanking". Also, demonstrated is the use of apple juice spray to help prevent TOMATO BLOSSOM DROP, as well as, proper PRUNING techniques to get a more bountiful harvest and healthier tomatoes.

• ALUMINUM FOIL
• PANTY HOSE 

 PROTECTING YOUR SQUASH - From Vine Borers
Yes, this could be THE answer to preventing the dastardly squash vine borer from decimating your zucchini or crook necks. (VIDEO 3:59)

•  SOAP - The INSECTICIDAL Variety

SQUASH (STINK) BUG CONTROL
Our squash plants seem to be under constant attack from all corners. Here is an effective, organic way to kill squash "stink" bugs and other soft-bodied insects. Also, the solution can be sprayed on plants (top & bottom of leaves) about every 7 days to help prevent insect infestations. BE SURE TO TEST SPRAY A SMALL LEAF SECTION--and wait 2 days to make sure the soap solution doesn't damage the plant. (Some plants are sensitive to soaps.) (VIDEO 4:32)